In
July 2003 I moved from Canberra to join my husband John who had
been appointed as Botany Curator at the Alice Springs Desert Park
(ASDP) that April. John had worked at the Australian National
Botanic Gardens (ANBG) for about 13 years, and had been the staff
representative at the ANBG Friends' Council in recent years, and
I had worked at the Australian National Herbarium (ANH) or ANBG
for 10 years. (In fact we met at ANBG in 1994.) This account is
based on my talk to the Friends in May 2006, and describes some
of the aspects of our life in Central Australia (CA), in particular
the more familiar plants and animals that we encountered daily,
and some rare plants from one of our excursions.
The
ASDP is run by the Northern Territory government and was opened
in 1997. It is an integrated and well interpreted botanic gardens
and zoo for CA native plants and animals. It lies 6 km west of
Alice Springs, and consists of a developed area of about 30 ha
(the 'core precinct'), with a 2.5 m electrified fence to exclude
feral animals, and 1300 hectares of natural and semi-natural vegetation
around it, extending over the quartzite-topped Heavitree Range
to the south.
The
Desert Park area was previously the town common, so is a bit degraded
except in the restored core precinct, but still has enough native
vegetation, birds and reptiles in the outer part of the Park to
make life interesting. We were lucky enough to live in one of
only three houses there. The NT herbarium, with its 30,000 dried
plant specimens, was just across the road, providing friendly
contacts and useful resources.
Three
desert habitats have been created in the core precinct of the
Park:
- The
woodland habitat, which is an enrichment
of the natural ecosystem at the base of the ranges.
- The
sand dune habitat which was created
by bringing in thousands of tonnes of red sand, and
- The
desert rivers habitat, where many
river red gums were planted and irrigated for a few years until
they were established. In northern Australia these are Eucalyptus
camadulensis var. obtusa, with unbeaked caps on the
buds and more colourful bark than var. camaldulensis
which occurs across southern Australia.
The
ASDP core precinct has a wide range of plants from across Central
Australia, plus 8 or 9 beautiful aviaries, many excellent live
animal exhibits in its nocturnal house, and an open air theatre
where a show using trained raptors is staged twice daily.
Various
species of Acacia dominated the vegetation in the outer
undeveloped park, including two varieties of Mulga (A. aneura),
the lovely Ironwood tree (A. estrophiolata) with its weeping
foliage, the fire-resistant rapid resprouters Colony Wattle (A.
murrayanum) and Prickly Wattle (A. victoriae), and
the Witchetty Bush (A. kempeana), which is very drought
resistant but fire sensitive, and is killed even by cool winter
burns. A large Witchetty Bush in our backyard provided a perch
and refuge for birds using the bird bath. Native birds, including
many honeyeater species, formed an almost continuous stream of
visitors in the mornings and evenings of the hot days, of which
there were many.
There
were some colourful skinks around in the summer time, and plenty
of geckoes at night, but the most abundant lizards during the
day were the long-nosed dragons, which grew to about 40 cm including
their very long tails. On hot days they'd sit around on rocks,
sometimes waving a front claw, and when disturbed would run away
on their heels. They fascinated and frustrated our cat Muffy,
who was permanently confined indoors as a condition of her tenure
at the Park. At night, the euros sometimes came out onto the plains
to graze.

Desert
Ghost Gums, Acacia and Buffel Grass,
with Heavitree Range (Mt Gillen) in background
In
the outer park area around the houses, the Desert Ghost Gum (Corymbia
aparrerinja) occurs along or near the drainage lines. The
Desert Bloodwood (Corymbia terminalis), is regenerating
well on some parts of the park and mature individuals have beautifully
tessellated bark. Closer to the range, the Whitewood (Atalaya
hemiglauca) provides some bright green foliage and flowered
well in Oct-Nov. 2004 when most other plants had finished. The
native orange (Capparis mitchellii) is seen occasionally
as isolated individuals. This species is actually in the caper
family Capparaceae but has dense dark green foliage like an orange
tree, and spectacular large creamy yellow flowers in late spring.
Both species are fairly widepsread across Australia from northern
NSW to the Pilbara in WA.
Three small
trees from the Proteaceae are common around the park: Grevillea
striata or Beefwood, Hakea lorea, and Hakea divaricata,
the Fork-Leaved Corkwood. These are impressive in flower and some
individuals have interesting gnarled form. Mistletoes are diverse,
abundant and conspicuous. Amyema maidenii has great development
on the Ironwoods (Acacia estrophiolata) and Beefwoods (Grevillea
striata), sometimes increasing the weight of their limbs to
breaking point. Mistletoes provide a shady summer refuge for birds,
and food when nothing else is flowering.
The most
common low shrub in the outer desert park is the Ruby Saltbush
(Enchylaena tomentosa) which is widely distributed across
Australia and conspicuous in many mallee areas in south-eastern
Australia. It is able to survive on scalded areas where most of
the topsoil has been blown away. There were at least three subspecies
of the taller shrub (Senna artemisoides), also very widely
distributed and common, around the park. The Sennas produced a
profusion of bright yellow pea flowers in late winter regardless
of whether rain had fallen or not.
The 1981
Flora of Central Australia gives figures of 57 species of Eremophila
(Emu Bushes) occurring in CA out of 180 in Australia, and we saw
quite a few species while we were there. Eremophila latrobei,
with red flowers, occurs in flatter areas of the outer park and
the Rock Fuchsia (Eremophila freelingii), can be found
at the foot of the ranges, looking rather rough until rain stimulates
growth of green foliage and lovely mauve flowers in spring. It
often occurs with spinifex, more correctly called Triodia
(various species), hummock grasses which grow over large areas
of arid Australia, usually in a fairly uniform vegetation pattern
of round plants fairly evenly spaced, forming myriad dots on the
landscape. In the Desert Park, Triodia occurred mostly
on the range, where I managed to fall into a hummock during one
climb, causing amusement to John and prolonged discomfort to myself.
At a certain altitude on parts of the range, there is a predominance
of a distinctive grayish shrub (Indigofera leucotricha),
which has lovely red pea flowers a month or two after good winter
rain. There are about 13 species of Indigofera in Central
Australia.
The understorey
in most areas is dominated by the introduced buffel grass (Cenchrus
ciliaris). Buffel grass was first introduced to CA in the
1870's by the Afghan cameleers. In the 1960's, it was deliberately
and widely sown following severe dust storms, to stabilise the
soil and as a pasture grass. It fulfils both roles admirably,
and responds to as little as 5 mm of rain with new green growth.
Unfortunately, it excludes the native grasses to a considerable
extent. Removal of the buffel from the Desert Park core precinct
gave rise to an attractive layer of short tufted perennial grasses
which was lacking in areas of dense buffel. In pastoral areas,
buffel is mostly grazed down, but in nature reserves it can provide
up to 100% cover in the more fertile and better watered areas,
and may grow to around half a metre high. It loves growing around
the base of trees, and it even climbs up into them. Buffel fires
often kill fire-sensitive trees and shrubs as they burn more intensely
than would be the case under more natural conditions, native grasses
being more delicate in stature and unable to carry a fire so well.
Driving west
from Alice Springs is a popular day trip, with Simpson's Gap,
Standley Chasm, Ellery Creek Big Hole, the Ochre Pits, Ormiston
Gorge and Glen Helen all easily accessible by 2-wheel-drive car
trips and short walks. Ranges to the north and south of the road
are often topped with cliffs of red quartzite. We paid several
visits to Ellery Creek Big Hole, 80 km west of Alice Springs,
which is a popular swimming spot with some very deep cold water
under the cliffs. The Heavitree quartzite rock around the waterhole
is 850 to 800 myo. On the drive out to the main road (a km or
two), you can see about 250 million years of varied geological
history due to the tilting of all the rocks, and there are corresponding
variations in plant communities.
At Standley
Chasm and Ellery Creek, we saw Macrozamia macdonelliensis,
CA's only cycad, with young Callitris glaucophylla or white
cypress, a species very common in some of the arid and semi-arid
areas of temperate Australia such as the eastern Riverina, but
occurring as mature trees only in fire-free refuges in CA. There
is also a Native Fig (Ficus playpoda), growing in rocky
gorges and low on rocky slopes where water collects.
The summer
rains of 2003-4 were mainly associated with thunder storms and
often built up over several humid days. They caused germination
and flowering of annual grasses like button grass Dactyloctenium
radulans. The perennial grasses greened up and flowered remarkably
quickly, especially the buffel grass, but also the native nine-awn
grasses, Enneapogon polyphyllus and E. avenaceous.
These retain their distinctive silvery glumes after the fluffy
seed has gone, and are common in the absence of buffel.
While the
summer rains had stimulated grass growth, the 80 mm of rain which
fell over two weeks in late May - early June 2004 brought up dicot
ephemerals, species that grow, flower and fruit over a few months
after good rain. These included several small herbaceous members
of the Brassicaceae (cabbage) family, and many different types
of daisies from the family Asteraceae. By late July, some of the
ephemerals were blooming, most obviously Stenopetalum nutans
(family Brassicaceae) which gave the landscape a yellowish tinge
due to its great numbers, fine stature and filamentous long yellow
petals, and there was a beautiful nectary scent pervading the
landscape in the early evenings.
Later on,
the yellow and white paper daisy Rhodanthe floribunda was
more conspicuous for months even when it had dried off. Small
but in great numbers, it still looked attractive in late November
along the Simpson's Gap Bike Path, which runs for 17 km from the
Desert Park to Simpson's Gap and provides gentle exercise and
great scenery away from the noise of the roads.
On 15 August
2004, John and I camped at Red Bank Gorge, a very pleasant camping
area about 130 km W of Alice Springs, and climbed Mt Sonder, the
Northern Territory's third highest mountain, which rises 800 m
above the plain to reach 1380 m ASL. It is likely that we were
witnessing a fairly rare event in terms of species composition
and flowering of the plant communities, brought on by fire followed
by reasonable seasons. Most of the mountain-side we walked up
had been burnt during the summer of 2002-3.
There was
a prolific germination and flowering of Fabaceaeous sub-shrubs,
such as species of Indigofera and Swainsona, scrambling
across the hard rocky ground, and Butterfly Bush (Petalostylis
cassioides) also featured. Central Australia's ?only Hibbertia,
occurring also in the Pilbaras but not known between, H. glaberrima
appeared quite frequently as well grown shrubs with luxuriant
flowers, and Hakea grammatophylla, confined to CA, was
conspicuous with its pinkish-red flowers.

Wrixonia
schultzii and Triodia near the summit of Mt Sonder,
Central Australia.
There
was a beautiful rocky shrubby area near the summit of the mountain
which had been missed by the fires. A few individuals of Leucopogon
sonderensis were present, almost tucked under the rocky ledges.
CA's only epacrid, this species is very limited in distribution
although not confined to Mt Sonder. A very distinctive, large,
dark-coloured, small-leaved shrub also growing in the summit area
is Wrixonia schultzii from the mint family Lamiaceae, a
species which is known only from this very small area. There is
only one other species in this genus and that occurs in WA. Wrixonia
was formerly part of the genus Prostanthera.
We
must have been too many years residing in Canberra's cool climate,
for we lasted less than two years in the heat of the Centre, where
only mid April to August was really pleasant for outdoor day-time
activity and the sea was a long way away. John decided to leave
Public Sector employment and is managing 'The Garden' at Weston
for the moment, where some of his work is actually with plants
again, and I am back at ANH as Herbarium Registrar, facilitating
and undertaking specimen label data capture, so that everyone
can more easily examine and study the distributions of these and
other Australian plants.
See
www.anbg.gov.au/avh which was
used in the preparation of this article.